Not all Chihuahuas have the same bold temperament. Some are very intense and will have an attitude as if they can take on the world while others may be extremely shy and timid. Either way, all Chihuahuas are very protective of their owners and families.

Taking Care of Your Chihuahua

The Chihuahua is a very excitable dog that requires a bit of daily exercise. But the good news is that these little guys can get all of the vigorous physical activity they need from running room to room in a house or even a small apartment.  However, it is still important to include outdoor walks and play time. The Chihuahua loves to roam outside and explore.

In terms of living arrangements, the Chihuahua is an indoor dog and should not be kept outside. There is nothing wrong with having him explore the yard a couple of hours each day, but this should only be temporary. Chihuahuas absolutely hate cold temperatures and will run to seek out warmth and comfort.

Rottweilers are said to have entered the United States sometime in nearly 1930s which then gained recognition by the AKC. Having become nearly extinct years earlier due to lack of functioning use by people, the Rottweiler has become one of the most popular dog breeds in today’s households, making its mark in the top 10 most popular registered dogs of the American kennel club.

This animal is extremely bold, confident, and alert. In fact, the Rottweiler is a top pick for anyone who is looking for a watchdog that has extensive protection abilities. However, when a dog is as courageous and aggressively confident as the Rottweiler is, sometimes stubbornness comes with the territory in terms of training ability. However, it is worth putting in the extra time and patience when making this dog breed a household pet.

Taking Care of Your Rottweiler

Like most large dogs, the Rottweiler must have physical activity on a daily basis. Mental play and obedience lessons should also be a part of the daily regimen. Vigorous games and long walks on the leash through safe areas would make an ideal day for the Rottweiler.

At that time, both the American Cocker Spaniel and the English Cocker Spaniel were considered to be the same breed by the American kennel club. However, in 1935 the AKC decided to finally separate the two as different breeds. The Cocker Spaniel then rose to popularity and was considered the most popular dog breed for a large number of years. It was then divided into three color types: black, particolor, and ASCOB (Any Solid Color Other than Black).

This dog breed is extremely cheerful, playful, and always willing to please. They are great family dogs which are wonderful with little children. If there was a scorecard to rate the Cocker Spaniel on its affection level and friendliness towards animals and people, it would rate at the highest score. This dog is also easy to train and is considered to be a moderate watchdog.

Taking Care of Your Cocker Spaniel

Keeping up with the Cocker Spaniel in terms of grooming takes a little work on a daily basis. They have extremely long hair with heavy fur growing from head to toe. Even their ears and its long hair will need a brushing on a daily basis. Professional clipping should be taken into consideration at least once per month in order to maintain a decent coat.

The popular Alaska Sweepstakes Race, which covered over 400 miles in the distance from Nome all the way to Candle, became an entrance for the Chukchi Huskies in 1909. These dogs did not really fare well in popularity at that time, however, there was one racer that was impressed with these animals and imported 70 of them to train for winning the 1910 race. Amazingly enough, his three teams of Huskies did indeed win first, second, and fourth-place. As you can probably guess, this immediately set the stage for the Siberian Husky to become the dominating winner for future races.

In 1925 the Siberian Husky started to show up in Canada and then soon after the United States. The AKC recognized this dog as an official breed in 1930. In World War II, a fair amount of Huskies served with soldiers for the US Army’s search and rescue missions. This further helped its popularity among dog enthusiasts. Eventually it became a common household pet and of course remains the most popular of any Arctic dog breed in existence today.

Although this breed went through several name changes during World War I, mainly due to its German heritage, it was officially renamed the German Shepherd and recognized by the AKC in 1931. And while its popularity ranking is down just a bit, it has been a top choice as a family companion for generations.

German Shepherds score very high in terms of protection ability, watchdog status, and training adaptability. Although playfulness and affection does not rank as high as other dog breeds, the German Shepherd is actually a perfect choice for a family pet.

This dog is extremely protective of its home, as well as members of the family. He is considered aloof and a bit suspicious towards strange people and other animals. However, they can be tamed and gentle around children and other house pets.

Taking Care of Your German Shepherd

As far as upkeep is concerned, German Shepherds need mental and physical challenges on a daily basis. With the ability to learn new tricks and obedience lessons, this dog is extremely intelligent. Physical activity must also be a part of this dog’s daily life. Long walks and running outside is ideal.

Since it takes twenty to thirty days for eggs to hatch, an infested home should be treated at ten-day intervals, at least four times, then once a month for two or three months. Sprays and insecticides used should be marked as a acaracide. Other insecticides appear to have little-to-no effect.

Usually it is only necessary to spray as high as two or three feet from the floor up the walls (unless tick infestation is heavy). If the family dog is accustomed to sleeping on the sofa or in overstuffed chairs, spraying should include those areas, paying particular attention to cushions as well as the edges of rugs and baseboards.

To man, the tick represents the disease known as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Originally, it was thought that the disease was restricted to the region of the Rocky Mountains – thus its name. However, it is not regional at all, and may be acquired over a considerable portion of the United States, east and west, and even in Canada. (The tick is also responsible for “rabbit fever” in rodents, which is transmissible to man.)

In the southern portion of the United States, as well as in France and Africa, there is an intestinal protozoan parasite – Babesia – which attacks blood cells in a dog and causes extreme anemia. This protozoan is spread from dog to dog by ticks. Heavy infestation of ticks upon a dog can cause an extreme loss of blood, anemia, paralysis, and even death.

Flea and tick collars are available commercially, but while such collars might eventually cause the tick to die, much damage and infestation can be done in the interim. Veterinarians can also prescribe tablets, which, when given to a dog, ensure that any tick that bites the dog will die.

The consequences of tick infestation should dictate the importance of tick control in homes and kennels. The approach of warmer weather signals the approach of Rhipicephalus Sanquineus. Now if THAT sounds like a blood-sucking monster from a science fiction movie, you’re partially right. Blood sucking monster? Yes! Science fiction? No way!

The tick then feasts upon the dog’s blood in this manner until she bloats to about the size of a pea. The male tick (brown, and a fraction of her size) then mates with the female. When she has received her fill of blood from the dog, she withdraws her barbed probe, and drops off of the host dog. She’ll then crawl into tiny crevices between sofa cushions and carpeting to lay her thousands of eggs.

Once a home or kennel is infested, eradication is no simple process, any more than ridding a dog of the parasite is a simple process. A single tick found on a dog necessitates immediate and zealous efforts at all stages of its life cycle.

Removing a tick – or ticks – from a dog can be done by the owner, providing the tick has not attached itself to the inner ear, on the eyelid, or some other inaccessible place that would require anesthesia. And because the tick’s probe is barbed (similar to a fish hook), brushing or combing by the dog owner may rid ticks that haven’t yet “locked on”, but does nothing for those that are already attached.

The dog’s hair should be pulled back from around the tick for the benefit of full exposure. A few drops of iodine or rubbing alcohol can then be applied directly on the tick. This will momentarily shock the parasite, and in some cases, cause it to loosen its probe.

Using a pair of tweezers, and getting as close to the skin line as possible, the tick can be pulled out with a slight twisting motion so that the head is not severed and allowed to remain embedded in the dog’s skin. If that should occur, secondary infection could result. It is always wise to reapply iodine, alcohol, or other antiseptic to the puncture once the tick is removed. If the tick’s head remains beneath the dog’s skin, applications of hydrogen peroxide can be helpful.

Once the dog is free of ticks, complacency on the part of the dog owner usually results in reinfestation. It should be remembered that if the dog picked up a tick, he may well have picked up larvae from four or five thousand recently hatched eggs. Dousing with a tick powder or other acaracide would be beneficial here, but if the larvae have dropped off in your home or yard, removing the original tick is only the beginning of the battle.

Referred to by most everyone as “ticks”, these parasites are blamed for carrying the micro-organism that caused the death of so many British war dogs in Singapore several decades ago. And during the Vietnam war, more than 300 U.S. war dogs had died mysteriously from tropical canine hemorrhagic syndrome, and canine hemorrhagic fever. Intensive studies resulted in the finger of guilt pointing directly at the ordinary tick.

Although there are several different species of ticks (wood tick, brown dog tick, etc.), a tick by any other name is still a tick. Because of resistance to insecticides, the tick is one of the most difficult external parasites to control.

The female tick will lay up to five thousands eggs in the crevices of a kennel, baseboard, or under the carpeting in the home. Eggs are never deposited upon the host animal. After twenty to thirty days have elapsed, the eggs hatch and become larvae. The larvae then seek out a host dog, gorge themselves on his blood, then drop off again to hide.

Six to twenty-three days later, the larvae molt and become eight-legged nymphs. The nymphs obtain another blood meal from a dog, drop off again and go into hiding. Twelve to twenty-nine days later, the nymph tick molts and becomes an adult. As an adult, it once more seeks the dog, engorges blood, and mates.

From the time the eggs hatch – and before the tick becomes an adult – it returns to the host dog more than once to feed on the canine’s blood. Once hatched however, a tick can live in a house for up to two years without needing a host dog to feed on.

Out of doors, ticks climb onto branches and into foliage to await the arrival of a dog host. A dog napping under a bush, or walking within jumping distance of the tick is all that is needed to provide the parasite with a host. In the home, ticks will emerge from beneath rugs and carpeting, climb walls, table and chairs, and even up as high as wall pictures, to await the passing of a dog. They may even have to wait up to six months, but a tick can instantly sense the approach of a dog and jump on it as it passes.

Concern over environmental pollution in general is also on the rise. Many citizens and some media reporters have made a sensation over dog litter, claiming that every disease from the common cold to bubonic plague comes directly from dog litter. Some people have gone overboard by attempting to agitate parents with such slogans as “children before dogs”.

Fairly speaking, dog litter presents few problems of medical concern to the average citizen residing in large city areas. The more serious health hazard is, of course, to other dogs and not to humans. Diseases such as hepatitis and distemper are passed from infected dogs to healthy ones through saliva and urine, while internal parasites are transmitted through the stool of infected dogs.

However, for a human to contract any disease from dogs would require that he walk the street barefooted or physically ingest dog waste or fleas which is, of course, highly unlikely. The argument of the “children before dogs” group is that children will unwittingly eat dog fleas and stool. We assume that parents would not let their young children to play unattended on public streets, parks and pavements; and when they are old enough to play unattended, they have been taught the basics of cleanliness and hygiene.

More likely to be of significant danger to human health is contamination of food by roaches, rats, and the common housefly, none of which seems to be exciting enough for these same people who are so concerned with dog litter.

But regardless of who’s judging who, most people agree that dog litter does present an awful smell and unsightly pollution of our environment in an area that can hardly afford it. Every dog owner is responsible for the mess created by his dog. Whether it is a Great Dane or a Chihuahua, each dog does his share in contaminating natural resources and infuriating pedestrians.

It is puzzling that dog owners who are fortunate enough to have a backyard have no difficulty keeping it clean of dog waste; but these same owners will walk their dog out the front door and allow her to pollute the public street, which is basically everyone’s’ front yard.

Animal lovers have a sensitivity to nature and animals that is not known to people who have never loved a pet. But the love and sensitivity must go beyond our pets and encompass our human neighbors. We cannot ignore the rights and privileges of other people. Our dogs are our responsibility and we have no right to inflict them on others.

If we all clean up after our pets, we will be contributing to a substantially cleaner, more pleasant environment. It is up to us to preserve decent cities to our pets as well as for ourselves and our neighbors.

In addition to using his barking, tail wagging, and body movements, dogs can also relay messages by the language of ear positions. The frightened dog tells of his submissive attitude to man by flattening his ears as well as lowering himself on haunches.

Also, in the last step in the sequence of aggression just before attack, the dog folds his ears close to his head and bares his teeth. But in the first step of aggressive movement, the dog picks up his ears to a vertical position.

Even the dog with hanging ears will pull the base of his ears forward, which makes the rest of his ears stand forward and outward. This upright position tells his human handler that there is every reason to be alert or on guard.

During World War II, the marines of M Company of the Second Raider Battalion laid their lives on the line in their dependence on the ability of their dogs to communicate to them what was ahead. While he was in the thick of battle, a Doberman named Andy had advanced from the shore to the jungle on Bougainville Island.

Andy liked to work off his leash. The dog was about ten yards ahead of the men when he froze and alerted his ears. The soldiers knew that those stiffened ears meant that there was a Japanese sniper just ahead. The scout leader sent two riflemen ahead, and they sprayed a mangrove tree with bullets. The sniper fell out. That same day Andy silently alerted his handler to snipers on two other occasions.

Now you might not have your own dog trained to such an elite degree, but you don’t have to in order to know how well your dog supplements his silent body language with his vocal communication. The vocal vocabulary has numerous and varied forms – your dog whimpers, whines, signs, grunts, hums, coons, howls, squeals, growls, and barks.

Your dog can vary his barking enough to communicate with you. Almost subconsciously, you have no doubt learned to understand the nuances of your pet’s barking. These minute differences may be in the tone, the frequency, the rhythm and the level of loudness. Your pet may bark to show his excitement, his pleasure, his sense of fear, and the need for your attention.

And your dog, by his tail-wagging, his licking, nosing, barking, howling and his many clever individual expressions, talks to you. Your pet tells you how much he wants to be your protector, your companion and your best friend. Like dogs throughout the ages, your dog has become your friend by his uncanny ability to communicate.